Jose and his truck
Jose and his truck

After passing through Campeche I left the coast and took the backroad towards Valladolid called the “the puuc route”. I got in the village of Cayal around 5 pm. It started raining hard as I was pulling in. Did not have the time to find a proper shelter even. I had to hide next to the wall of a little “comedor” (foodstall) under the cover of its roof and watch my bike getting all wet. It was the 11th of December, a day before the big celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The foodstall I hid next to was in front of the church on one side of the square. Couple of elderly ladies had some free food prepared for the passing through pilgrims. As I was traveling cycling l was quickly pronounced a pilgrim and granted a free dinner and lemonade. Simple and tasty, I have to admit. At first there were not much pilgrims passing ( I guess most stayed on the main road). Couple of hours later a whole truck pulled in and the pilgrims quickly ran into the church for the mesa. I was still hanging around the foodstall chatting with the ladies and their curious and attractiveJ granddaughter, answering the usual questions. We were joined by one of the guys from the truck. He had some food and started asking me questions. Quite a curious and talkative guy:-) We quickly dived into a peculiar, yet rather interesting, for me, direction. Jose (that was his name) said he just saw a ghost by the side of the road couple of hours ago. Seeing the curiosity in my eyes he started talking about the ancient knowledge of the Mayans and how there are still brujos and magic around here. His neighbor could turn into a bird and go steal people’s food, he even lost one of his legs on a bird trip for food. And then one day he had just disappeared. It all sounded soo Castaneda, I was all ears. Then we got into Astronomy and aliens. I was getting more and amused and curious. What a surprise it was to have such a conversation in a small village with a guy from the pilgrim’s truck. I could not stop myself from asking how exactly all this information fitted with his catholic believes. Well, it turned out he was not a catholic pilgrim. He was the driver. He just provided transport for the pilgrim group, just business:) He was however one of the most well informed people I met in Mexico and may be one of the most intelligent truck drivers I have met in my life. The ladies from the foodstall followed the whole conversation with great curiosity and expressed agreement on several occasions although not quite loud – we were in front of the church:) He finally invited me to visit him in case I pass through his town. Although I had the chance I never did – I guess it would have been an interesting experience:)

 

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